Tecumseh Carburetors are fairly simple units. The float model carbs are easy to rebuild/repair. Before you start, one thing you will need is a factory repair manual.
There are some common problems with carburetors that should be checked before you start a rebuild. Many times the following items will correct the trouble your engine is having. You will still need a repair kit to replace certain gaskets and seals that should be replaced whenever disturbed.
One of the more common problems is the flooding of the carb. If this is your complaint check the float first. Remove the float bowl, float pin and remove the float. Be careful that you do not loosen the float needle valve. Now shake the float and listen for gas inside. If the float sloshes, replace it with a new one. Replace the float needle valve seat and adjust the float per the factory manual. Replace the float bowl gaskets.
If you are experiencing performance problems and suspect the carb, you will have to remove it from the engine to correct the problem. After the carb is off the engine there is one thing you need to check before going any further. Remove the float as above. Now hold the choke and throttle butterflies so that you can shake the carb without them making a sound. Shake the carb and listen for it to rattle. If you do not hear the rattle, the emolltion tube is stuck. This tube is sealed into the body of the carb during manufacturing and can not be replaced. The carburetor will need to be replaced. Also if the aluminum body of the carb is corroded inside, any rebuild will only be a temporary fix. Once the corrosion has started it can not be stopped.
If everything checks out up to here, a rebuild and cleaning should fix the carb. However there is one more tricky thing you will need to do. You must remove the welch plug on the side of the carb. This can be done by driving a sharpened small punch or screw driver through the plug and popping it out. Take extreme care when doing this procedure. There are two jets cast into the carb body under this welch plug. If you damage them the carb will have to be replaced. With the welch plug removed and the main jet(in the bowl nut) out the three holes that need to be cleaned are exposed. Using a piece of soft tag wire clean these holes. Now clean the complete carb with carb cleaner.
Re-assemble the carb. Make sure that the needle valve seat is completely down into its bore. After driving in the new welch plug, paint it with finger nail polish to seal it. Adjust the float height using a #4 twist drill as directed in the repair manual.
Now that your carb is rebuilt don't drop the ball on the 90 yard line. Replace the gaskets between the carb and the engine, and the carb and the air cleaner. One common mistake made is to fail to replace the fuel line between the carb and the fuel filter/tank. If the carb was full of dirt or varnish the fuel line will also be. Plus when the carb or fuel line is removed, the inside of the hose usually is damaged. Small fragments of hose materials can break loose and flow into the carb. This will ruin the job that you just completed. After the carb is remounted to the engine it must be adjusted correctly. You will need a repair manual to do this. Remember that the idle circuit must be adjusted first. Without the idle circuit working correctly you will never get the main jet adjusted correctly
Step #1: Practice before it snows. New chains sometimes need to be adjusted to the physical tire that you are using. To install snuggly, tire chains may need to have some excess chain cut off. You may need a couple of bungee cords to add some tension. It is best to know that, before you're snowed in.
Step #2: Lay the tire chains out on the floor with the curled ends of the cross chains. The flat surface of the cross chains should be against the tire sidewall when installed. Make sure that the side chains are straight and not twisted or crossed. Notice that there are 2 different clips/hooks at one end of both side chains.
The fixed hook will be installed on the inside (tractor) side of the tire.
The long, moveable clip will be on the outside side of the tire (away from tractor). You should now have the chains laid out in the fashion that they would wrap around the tire.
Step #3: Now the chains should be ready to install. Either drive the unit over the chains to a point that you can work them around the tire or jack the wheel off the ground. Make sure that you have read the disclaimer and practice safety first. Turn the engine off, use jack stands, etc.
Step #4: Hook the inside side chain (as shown above). To start, just hook it to the first link of the other end of the same side chain that its on. Now hook the outer chain by passing the long shank thru the first link (as shown aboveAS SHOWN ABOVE) of the other end of the same side chain its on.
Then fold it back on itself. Hook the hook into the chain. If there is a lot of slack in the chains hook, the hooks on both side to the next link in on the side chain, etc. Repeat the procedure.